South Coast rides, Treasure Beach and beyond

Jamaica's South Coast runs through St Elizabeth, with Manchester and Clarendon behind it. It is drier and quieter than the north coast. Fishing boats pull up on the sand at Treasure Beach, cattle graze the plains, and evenings end early.

Treasure Beach is a string of small bays rather than one long strip. Guesthouses and villas sit between them, many down unsigned lanes. Give your driver the property name and a phone number, and it saves a lot of slow circling at dusk.

Black River is the parish capital. Boats leave from the bridge into the Great Morass, a wetland of mangrove channels where crocodiles sun on the banks. Go in the morning, when the water is calm and the light is soft.

YS Falls sits inland on a working estate. The tiers drop through tall trees into cool pools, and there is a rope swing for the brave. Water shoes help on the rocks. It pairs well with the river boats as one day.

The road in is part of the trip. From Montego Bay it crosses hill country through Westmoreland or runs inland to the plains. From Kingston it climbs to Mandeville and drops back to the sea. Neither route is quick, so plan to arrive in daylight.

Food is simple and fresh. Fried fish and bammy at the beach, peppered shrimp sold in bags along the Middle Quarters road, and fruit from roadside stands. Cash is useful in the villages, where small places may not take cards.

Pack sun protection and a light layer for breezy evenings. The sun on the south side is strong, and shade can be sparse on the open beaches.